Snkrs Day: How did you get started in footwear design?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\nDewayne Dale Jr: \u201cSo I went to school for health science and then went to grad school for athletic training, like sports medicine, because I love sports and wanted to be close to it, and that was one of the few ways that I could actually be involved with athletes. So I did that for a little bit. I don’t want to say I’ve always been creative, but I always had a knack for [design.] I loved footwear when I was younger. I loved the stories that you could start to see from the engineering parts of the outsole to the upper patterns. That kind of carried on and it hit me back in 2011-2012 when I was modifying my own outdoor gear. It came down to just Googling who designs shoes. I literally Googled, \u2018What does it take to be a footwear designer?\u2019 I didn’t know who did it. I had no idea who was doing all of this, and you don’t get those questions answered in school. It’s amazing how the idea of going to school is so that they can teach you that there’s so many things to do, but when you get there, it’s [limited.] Anyhow, long story short, there was a Nike job and there were these little keywords down below, and it said \u2018industrial design.\u2019 I’m like, \u2018What is that?\u2019 So I Googled that and saw all the images of what it is. I always felt like I’ve been doing that for a long time. I just never had the title. So I stopped what I was doing, and my family and I moved to Portland, Oregon. That’s where I went back to school for a couple more years. My past two degrees helped with all the general stuff, so I just went and did a focus on design. I wanted to learn more about it, but I also wanted to do it in the heart of footwear companies.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n
How did you get introduced to sneakers?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n\u201cGrowing up on the Res<\/em> \u2013 we always call it the Res<\/em> \u2013 but basketball is such a big sport. I loved basketball and I remember starting to see how shoes changed from your typical Jordans, and evolved into something else. I’ve always loved when that started. For me, growing up in the 90s, there were a lot of cool things happening in footwear that I gravitated towards, and that’s something I held onto all through college, but it wasn’t until 2011-2012 that I put two-and-two together and was like \u2013 I love this. I’m just going to try to do this. There’s nobody where I grew up that’s done it. I’ve always had no one to ask. I literally had no one to go to as a reference going into this industry.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\nWhat was the first sneaker that caught your attention?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n\u201cThe first shoe that really caught my attention was the Nike Air Max Uptempo \u201895. I think that’s the one with the first colorway I saw in Foot Locker in Farmington, New Mexico. It was a white upper with a bubble cushioning system and white, black, and teal at the bottom. I liked those little teal ovals. It was just a really cool looking shoe that caught my attention. That stayed with me for a long time. Right now we’re still kind of in this chunky [phase]. To me, that’s how I grew up. That was what it was. It was like chunky-looking shoes because back then, the technology wasn’t as advanced, so you had to almost overbuild a shoe. Now we can make a sock-type sneaker, very minimal, but we choose to go back and make it bigger, which I think is cool. I’m here for it.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n
What was your first job in footwear design?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n\u201cMy first gig, out of my third college, was being a designer for an innovation team. One of the brands was Keen Footwear. Another brand was Chrome Industries, they’re like high-end urban cycling gear. While I was on that team, I worked on a lot of projects because I was using everything from hand-sketching, to laser cutters, to 3D printers, and just kind of making things. So that’s kind of how it all started.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n <\/figure>\nKEEN hiking boot designed by Dewayne Dale Jr.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<\/p>\n\n\n\n
What has your experience been like working in the footwear industry?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n\u201cThe industry is very interesting. If you know somebody, you can get in. Not to say that everybody who gets in doesn’t have talent, that’s not it. It’s just that if you know somebody, you’re way better off at getting into a place. I’ve seen a lot of talented people not working in the industry and vice versa. There’s a lot of people that aren’t as talented working in the industry because they know someone. But I’m like cool, I just wanted to be in. I want to share my story and my perspective, and that\u2019s kind of where it landed me with the stuff I’ve been working on.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n
How has your work developed over time?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n\u201cI just try to get my hands on as many projects [as possible]. I moved from the innovation team to an advanced concepts team. Then I worked in-line for some more commercial products where I did Keen\u2019s hiking boots, some of their sandals, and a lot of kids stuff. Then the pandemic hit and I decided to start my own. I’ve always wanted to do something that I felt was missing for a long time, which led to my brand, which is called FIFTH. To me, it feels scattered because I still have part of my brain in sports medicine, human anatomy, human physiology \u2013 and then the other parts like the design element. So I love combining those two.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n
From the concept stage to the final product, what\u2019s your favorite part about bringing a shoe to life?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n\u201cHonestly, footwear design can be pretty dirty. It can be dirty in the sense that you are really involved in the product. And that’s one of the things I love, getting down to millimeters of the lugs, and shifting something over like 2 millimeters. I geek out on stuff like that. I love designing new tooling or new outsoles and midsoles, just because I really get to pick where the lugs are going to be placed, and the shape of the outsole, the shape of the midsole, and then even the upper. I think the upper is really cool because we’ve come a long way in pattern engineering. I grew up seeing a lot of moccasins and simpler footwear patterns. Then seeing patterns now, it’s really cool. I’m always blending those two in a way \u2013 the old and the new.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n <\/figure>\nNavajo Nike concept by Dewayne Dale Jr. <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nWhat\u2019s been one of the most memorable sneaker moments in your life?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n\u201cWhen I was really young, maybe like 7-years-old, I used to go to my grandpa’s house, and he would have these yard sales, and invite a bunch of people over to sell at his yard sale. I was young and I had a pair of Jordan 3s on. I was just running around but they were torn, like the vamp and everything had holes in it. I loved them so much and I wore them all over the place. There was this Black dude selling at my grandpa’s yard sale and he called me over and asked me about my shoes. He was asking why I’m wearing them because they have so many holes and stuff like that. But then he was like, \u2018Let me make you a deal.\u2019 And I said, \u2018Alright.\u2019 He pulled out this Army duffel bag thing and he’s like, \u2018I’ll give you these, if you give me those on your feet,\u2019 \u2013 which were like the same Jordan 3s, but in the University Blue color, same size and everything. It was cool, we made a trade. I didn’t know who he was, but that was one of those moments in my life. That’s what I love about the culture of sneakers. And I mean I was just a little kid. That dude maybe was trying to sell them, but probably saw that I wore those things to the ground and was just like, \u2018Hey, I want to switch with this kid.\u2019 It’d be cool to one day figure out who that was, but that was always a story that I thought about a lot. It felt like, \u2018Did it really happen?\u2019 When you think of sneakers and the impact it has on a lot of people, and not just not how many sneakers you have, and not what’s the hottest one out there \u2013 sometimes it goes deeper than that. That’s one thing I’ve always loved about how strong sneaker culture is.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n
How do you make sense of the sneaker craze? What is it about sneakers that make them so fascinating?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n\u201cSometimes I think about that question. I think a lot about how people walk around, everyone’s walking around. When you look at clothing or anything you put on your body, it’s like there’s one thing that doesn’t look as different. Me and another guy could wear a hoodie or a pair of jeans, and it would probably fit one of us better than the other, but with shoes, there’s more of a commonality. There’s something very cool about footwear that we can all share. I think that’s appealing to everybody because anybody of different size could have [the same] style. There’s this cool common trait that no one sees, but it transforms your feet. And when you can do that to a product that you always have contact with, you start to create this bond in a way, a weird connection with this non-living object. You put shoes on to do your entire life with, so it really becomes deeper when you start to think of it. That’s why when you can make something that you have a deep connection with look like something you really like, then people are going to be crazy about it. But I think that’s only a small bit of what you can do with sneakers.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n
How did growing up on the reservation influence you?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n\u201cI grew up in Shiprock, New Mexico. It\u2019s the Northwest corner of New Mexico, very close to the Four Corners. It’s on the Navajo reservation. I like to reflect on how my town shaped my view of things and products. Growing up on the Res \u2013 I viewed electricity different. I viewed water different. I viewed clothes different. I viewed what it meant to play outside, what it meant to entertain yourself, a lot of things like that \u2013 differently. It helped shape me to try to do more with less. When you get into this industry, it seems like the possibilities are endless in a way, but I like to rely on how I grew up in terms of I could do more with less. I\u2019m only going to get out what I put in. That\u2019s how I was raised and I think it’s a nice value to have. I\u2019ve always had a connection with observation, being able to observe and in turn tell a story, but then add the form at the function. It took me a while to realize, but I will say this, when I got my first design job it was with innovation, but then I did Keen commercial. When I got there, being able to tell a story with my life experiences felt like I had an advantage.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n
What tribe is your lineage rooted in?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n\u201cNavajo, but when you’re Navajo, we don’t stay, \u2018I\u2019m Navajo.\u2019 We say, \u2018We\u2019re Din\u00e9.\u2019 Din\u00e9 is Navajo for \u2018the people.\u2019 I have four clans and usually you start out sharing your clans. In English my clan is Red Running Into Water<\/em>, born for Water’s Edge<\/em>. My mom’s dad’s clan is the Bitter Water <\/em>clan and my dad’s dad is the Yucca Fruit Strung Out On A Line<\/em> clan. When you share your clans, other Din\u00e9 people are able to see if we’re related through a clan system.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n <\/figure>\nFIFTH x ROCKDEEP M.1 Trail shoe<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<\/p>\n\n\n\n
When did FIFTH first get started?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n\u201c2019-2020, during the pandemic. This company, Rock Deep, the owner of it his name is Rocky Parrish. He reached out and pitched me this idea of doing a collaboration. For me, it was something that I’ve always wanted to do. I’ve had all these sketches of the modern moccasin. Whenever you have a design, you try to figure out the development process \u2013 who’s going to make it. So with him, he had his development process already created and we could just team up to create this shoe that was signature. Basically both of our brands worked together on that. It was cool and I think the point was made in terms of that I wanted it to be different from what any other brand has been doing.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n
How has your community reacted to FIFTH?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n\u201cI’ve had a lot of elders reach out and say, \u2018This is one of the coolest things I’ve ever seen.\u2019 When you get compliments from your own people, you know you did something right. But I will say that your own people are also your toughest critics.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n
What\u2019s the meaning behind the brand\u2019s name, FIFTH?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n\u201cBack a long time ago, Navajo people used to live on bigger land before they were put on a reservation, but their land was always in-between these four mountains. One of the mountains sits in Flagstaff, Arizona. One sits in Colorado. Another one sits in eastern New Mexico, and then there’s another one that\u2019s south. It\u2019s a big chunk of land and a lot of my elders would say, ‘You’re never truly home unless you’re within the four sacred mountains.’ I’ve always liked that. That always kept me focused when I was in college. So I wanted to call the brand FIFTH because I always saw myself as this fifth part within the four sacred mountains. But it’s not just for Navajo people. It’s really more of a way of thinking in terms of we all have our own center. Maybe it’s home, maybe it’s in the studio, maybe it’s a certain music you listen to \u2013 whatever it is, it centers you. That’s where <\/em>FIFTH came in. Also in Navajo culture, there’s five worlds, and it’s a really long story, but the fifth world is the glittering world, which is where shoes and all this stuff is happening, so FIFTH always made sense to me.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\nTell me about FIFTH\u2019s debut sneaker, the M.1 Trail.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n\u201cThe sneaker I did for FIFTH I wanted to make sure that the people who I’m doing it for, which was for the people back home, people on The Res, that they understand. I knew they were going to understand the colorway and understand the silhouette. Even when they look at it from a distance they’re going to be like, \u2018Oh, that looks like a Moccasin,\u2019 like yeah, it is<\/em>. The reason I wanted to do that is because we have such a strong connection with our moccasins. I didn’t want to replace that, but I wanted to celebrate what we had. To do this [sneaker], where I grew up was the story. Big brands aren\u2019t designing things or coming out with things for people that live where I live. The general population and all these numbers, that’s how [they] create. Because if you can focus on that, you’re going to get what you put in. But for me, I wanted to flip it. I’ve been to a lot of design meetings and I’ve seen different teams or designers that would present stuff, and they would have things up there like Southwest culture, or even pictures of moccasins. And for me, I was always like, \u2018That doesn’t make sense.\u2019 So I wanted to do that. My story was to create a shoe product that doesn’t just live on an inspiration board. You think of brands like Visvim, you think of brands like Minnetonka, all these brands that come up with these moccasin meets future [silhouettes]. What always got me is that there was no one like me doing it. I wanted to be able to give back to the kids who want to wear their moccasins to school, but they couldn’t wear them all day because in P.E. they’re sliding all over the place because it’s just leather. So if I created something that had a grippy bottom and looked like something they grew up with, [I knew we could reclaim it]. It was the places I lived in, the colors I saw, and the culture that really brought that out. To be honest, another part of the story is that most brands can’t go there because there’s a lot of red tape. In a way, if there’s no one like me on the team, they’re going to be like, \u2018Why did we go there?\u2019 So it gets kind of political in a way.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n <\/figure>\nDevelopment sketch of the FIFTH x ROCKDEEP M.1 Trail shoe<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Do you think brands have gotten better at creating a space for representation within the footwear industry?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n\u201cA lot of footwear companies now are hiring more people of color. There’s been such a big push and rightfully so. Things that were created in the past, the people who were behind them, we didn\u2019t know who they were until now. In that same sense, you can’t just go and create a moccasin, and pull all these images of past moccasins of different tribes, and then turn it into this sneaker, and slap a big logo on it \u2013 but brands still do it and it’s not authentic. I’m not saying that they need to get a Native person in the room every time they want to design something, but on a certain level \u2013 they should. I lived in a small desert town and I’ve always argued with people that there’s so much culture. Where I grew up inspires a lot of brands. Today I see Southwest stuff all over the place and it’s always done differently. I realized I needed to do this because no one else has done it. I needed to be in there. It was this question of, \u2018Why am I not?\u2019 or \u2018Why aren’t we involved in that?\u2019 I had the knowledge and tools at hand to go do it. I felt like I was taking back a lot of the design elements that I’ve seen kind of just splashed all over the place. I wanted to prove that there are Indigenous designers out there that don’t just do handcrafted stuff. If given the opportunity, we can put our spin on something that’s commercial.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n
There’s little-to-no representation of Indigenous people in sneakers, but are there any areas that you do notice representation? Whether that be an event, a social media page, or even indigenous influencers or creatives.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n\u201cHonestly, I don’t. I can’t be the only one. There’s got to be a handful. There’s just not enough to make that difference.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n
As a designer, how do you add to the sneaker community?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n\u201cMy style [is] way different than someone else’s and that’s what I’ve learned. I’ve learned to own my style, my thought process, and my perspective. Everybody has different tastes. I like creating things that maybe even non-Native people like, which is what I hope. I’ve learned that people in Europe had ordered the first round of [the FIFTH M.1 Trail shoes], which was really cool.”<\/p>\n\n\n\n
What’s next for Fifth?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n\u201cThere’s a collaboration coming out this Fall. I think I’m going to start teasing that. It’s not with ROCKDEEP. It\u2019s with Manitoba, they make these more northern-style mukluks. That’s one of the ones that reached out, and they said the same thing, \u2018We didn’t know there was an Indigenous footwear designer.\u2019 So I’m glad that they want a lot of their future shoes to be designed by Indigenous artists. They had an Indigenous artists series, but they never had a footwear designer come in and do different things. I\u2019m here for it.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n
As a designer, what do you hope to accomplish next in your career?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n\u201cI honestly want to be able to influence a lot of Indigenous artists and designers, but at the same time, I also want to just keep pushing the envelope in terms of the industry. It creates cooler products. On an innovation team you\u2019re taught that the more different you are, all of you are, the better the product will be because we all have different views and different perspectives. Sometimes products feel like it’s all the same. There’s not many things out there with a really cool story. Just because it’s expensive doesn’t mean it’s a cool story, which is hard to explain to a lot of kids. I just love stories and how stories push design.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n
—<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\nFollow Dewayne Dale Jr.<\/a> and FIFTH<\/a> on Instagram.<\/p>\n\n\n\nTo purchase a pair of the FIFTH x ROCKDEEP M.1 Trail shoe, visit rockdeep.com<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n <\/figure>\n\n\n\n <\/figure>\n\n\n\n <\/figure>\n\n\n\n <\/figure>\n\n\n\n <\/figure>\nPhoto via @tachiiniiart<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"Long before the “land of the free and the home of the brave,” there was a nation of people that…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":328355,"featured_media":1053179,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[1207912,618],"tags":[],"cultivate_rss":[],"class_list":{"2":"type-post"},"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\n
Dewayne Dale Jr. Creates FIFTH to Reclaim the Moccasin | Snkrs Day<\/title>\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n\t \n\t \n\t \n \n \n \n \n \n\t \n\t \n\t \n